Location

We are a mobile automotive service (Hobby), we set up at a pre arranged location. We do not have a shop for you to visit. Contact us for details.

Power

One single phase 220v 30a and one 110v 20a outlet with no other loads within 50 feet of testing pad. Generators ARE NOT sufficient and may cause damage to our equipment. We can hook into other 220V single phase circuits rated for at least 30a. Call for details before appointment is made.

Test Area

Testing on private property only. In order to set up we must have a flat concrete pad. Uneven or slanted setup surfaces will not work as a setup area. We do not set up on gravel. Asphalt is a very unpredictable surface, most of the time its too uneven. If you are close, we may be able to take a look. Make sure access to the pad is accessible for a trailer/truck from a public road. If outdoors, try to choose a day with good weather. We can provide canopy coverage for the dyno, but rain may prevent operation of the dyno for safety reasons. The area will be roped off and no one is allowed inside the restricted area for safety.

Noise

Customer is responsible for meeting any and all noise restrictions for the testing area. Industrial and commercial locations are preferred. Residential areas inside city limits are not a good fit. We will not test unmuffled vehicles in areas where noise is a problem.

Diagnostic Testing

A lot of our work comes from vehicles that other shops have kicked out the door and are still not up to the owners expectations. Every situation is different.

For Dyno use, we deliver to a suitable location. There's so many advantages to this type of testing. Say there's a shop that tunes carbureted muscle cars and wants to get the jets right the first time. We show up and set the dyno right in a single bay in their garage, hook up the real time wideband o2 sensor and an hour later the car is perfectly tuned with a print out. The shop was able to use the tools they're familiar with - "it's their shop" and it works out for everyone. They don't have to buy 50K worth of gear, but still have access to it when needed.

We do not offer any automotive service work or repair. We offer testing, tuning and diagnosis only. We will always help guide/assist you with the diagnostic information you need to make reasonable tuning choices/changes. Wide band o2 sensors are available for sorting out air fuel ratios. Manifold pressure can be logged, along with other data streams for RPM and MPH. Other data channels can be configured.

Tuning

If you are planing on making changes you need to have the means to do so. Purchasing a range of jets for a carbureted engine or purchase a software license of your choice for OEM EFI at the minimum. Aftermarket ECU's have software that is needed also. Think ahead and contact us for help to save time. The difference between a good tune and a poor one is just time. It could take a lot more refinement than some people estimate, depending on your goals and how close to ideal your current tune is.

We can dyno/diagnose all years and makes of 2wd or part time 4wd automobiles to fix drivability problems and verify your horsepower and torque. For tuning, we specialize on working with older, smog exempt or off highway vehicles. It is illegal to disable emission controls on late model vehicles that are used on public roads and the fines are severe, so we do not do this. If there is something we don't do, we can usually point you in the right direction with a quick message and verify any changes the owner has made themselves with our dyno.

84" maximum width of the drive tires. Dually's can usually run with outer wheels removed.

Make sure your vehicle is capable of handling the stress of a dyno test. You are responsible for a safe and reliable vehicle for testing. You know how your vehicle is put together, its condition and its abilities, we do not. The items listed below are basic suggestions, and are not inclusive of all the points that should be thoroughly checked before a test. There is a minimum charge that will be paid even if your vehicle malfunctions and can not complete the full testing time.

TractionControl/Antilock Brakes

Some late model vehicles with TCS/ABS systems need to have them disabled or turned off to dyno test. Make sure you know the procedure to do that, each vehicle is different.

Tires

Make sure the tires are in excellent shape! No bulges, age cracks or separation. Check your speed rating and date of manufacture. For safety, we will not run the tire over their rated speed. We recommend not using any tire over 5 years old. If your tires come apart on the dyno you are responsible for any damage. Tires should be inflated to the pressure listed on the sidewall. Check wheel weights and remove them if they are on the outer edge of the wheel! Flying wheel weights can cause property damage or personal injury. Don't run soft compound/soft sidewall tires on your drive tires for chassis dyno tests. True street tires at 30 psi or higher and rated for the speeds your drive wheels will see on the dyno, will survive and hook up better on a small roller chassis dyno. No question about it, they just work better for this.

Mickey Thompson has a bulletin out (#8 under Street & Strip) mickeythompsontires.com/tech/

Drive Shaft

Check drive shafts for proper strength and damage/wear. Lowered vehicles should be inspected for excessive drive shaft length, this can also lead to failure on the dyno. A driveshaft failure can be extremely dangerous on the dyno. It can tear up our equipment and yours. It can also cause injuries if it hits someone. We now REQUIRE a driveshaft loop AND a heavy duty drive shaft on most engine swapped and/or high power cars. Lowered trucks can explode driveshafts even at low hp levels due to improper drive shaft angles. Safety first! Front wheel drive vehicles over 350 hp require HD shafts also. No Exceptions! Contact us if you have questions. If your drive shaft fails on the dyno you are responsible financially for any damage.

See the download section for further details